green waves

after a month and a half of working full time i went to bali.

my camera died :(

wakeup every morning at 5 or 6 am to join a surf group. we surfed 4-5 hours a day, piling into cars according to our skill level and driving off to different beaches, past towns, rice patties, temples, sacred cows, endless motorbikes, to find the perfect waves.

the green room:

nothing can compare to the feeling of being so excited and scared as when you are about to catch a big wave. being around people who share the sense of being so free, with such an appreciation of the simplest of what nature has to offer- something that has been around since the beginning of earth... the sea. 

i had a forbidden romance with a half-german half-french guide stemmed from a yoga session with him in a dark, hot garden lit by the full moon. on the last night i stayed with him in a one room apartment where you had to climb out on the ledge of the building to get to the bathroom. i don't think i slept one second that night, i felt every single second pass in amazement of my trip. in the morning he was my guide. the waves were perfect.

the overwhelming sense of living.